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My Favorite Filter
I think the thing I like most about working in black-and-white is the fact that it's
much more an expression of how I feel about a subject than a representation of
"reality," as is so often the case with color photography. The world doesn't exist
in Black-and-White (my mother told me that...) so a B&W image is by its very nature
an abstraction of the things we see.
The judicial use of filters can greatly enhance the impact of how a subject
appears, and in black-and-white we can even skew the way colored subjects relate
to each other.
I normally like to be fairly subtle about my use of filters; a photograph shouldn't
look like a filter was used, just as a print shouldn't look like it was dodged and
burned! One of the most generally popular choices, a #8 Yellow, is usually so subtle
that I don't see much point in using it. Another popular choice, the #25 Red, is
often too strong, rendering skies and day-lit shadows illogically dark.
My two favorite filters, a #12 Yellow ("minus blue"), and a #23 Red, respectively,
have both more strength and finesse than the ones found in most camera bags.
The #12 yields an effect almost as strong as a #15 orange, but with only a 1 stop
filter factor, only slightly greater than the #8. The #23 tends not to make skies
quite so artificially dark as the #25.
Of these two "favorites" I would say that I use the #12 for most of my landscape
work, with the #23 for most of the rest. I sometimes use a #15 if I want an
in-between effect or a #25 if a subject needs a bigger kick. Occasionally I use
no filter at all. Green filters can sometimes be useful in dealing with foliage,
but be aware that the "greens" we see in plants and trees often don't have the
true spectral qualities to make them respond to filtration like we think they
should!
By the way, the #s 12 and 23 filters were Ansel Adams' favorites. That's how I
discovered them.
General Filter Information
© Alan Ross Photography Workshops
In Black-and-White photography the practical effect of a filter is to lighten
its own color and darken its opposite color.
In purely scientific terms, a filter has no effect on its own color and darkens
everything else, including "neutral" colors. When we apply a "filter factor" to
the exposure, neutral colors remain unchanged and then the filter's own color
becomes lighter and the opposite becomes darker.
The color wheel below shows the relationships between the Additive Primary colors,
Red, Green and Blue, and their Subtractive Primary (opposite) counterparts: Cyan,
Magenta and Yellow.
Red is opposite Cyan
Green is opposite Magenta
Blue is opposite Yellow
What we commonly call a "blue" sky is actually a bit more cyan, which is why a red
filter will darken the sky more than a yellow filter. Orange is in between. Keep
in mind that outdoor shadows are illuminated by the sky, not the white light of the
sun. Any filter that darkens the sky will also darken the shadows!
Green or red filters can be quite useful in the Southwest where we might come
across a brilliant green plant in front of a red sandstone wall. With no filter
used, the BW film will see the green and red as being the same: gray mush. A
strong green filter will make the plant light and the sandstone dark, the red
filter will make the plant dark and the sandstone light.
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